Mohammad Waheeb
Recently excavated, newly opened to tourists as an archaeological site, and a stop on Pope John Paul II’s historic 2000 visit to the Holy Land, Tell el-Kharrar is being proposed by the excavator. Dr. Mohammad Waheeb, as the “true “ site of Jesus’ baptism. In this article, Dr. Waheeb presents his excavation results and reasons for connectiong the site to the New Testament event.—Ed.
Introduction
What can be known about events surrounding Jesus and John the Baptist? The Gospels give some details of the events in which they were involved, but what does it say about them?
According to the Gospels, John was baptizing in Bethany beyond the Jordan, which was undoubtedly on the east bank of the Jordan. Bethany is some times taken to mean Beth-aniah or Bet-anniyyah, which means “house of the boat” (Jn 1:28). The area is referred to again in John 10:40:
And he (Jesus) went again beyond the Jordan, into that place where John was first baptizing, and there he abode.
Bethany beyond the Jordan is not only a ford, but also represents a village or town located between Wadi Nimrin to the north and Wadi Gharaba to the south. Wadi el-Kharrar was the center and core of this area during the pre-Roman, Roman and Byzantine periods.
Area north of the Dead Sea including Wadi el-Kharrar where the author has found early Christian remains associated with John the Baptist.
In fact, the Madaba Map has correctly indicated the springs on the eastern side of the Jordan River with the inscription “Ainon where now is Sapsaphas” meaning the place was once called Ainon—place of a spring (Avi-Yonah 1954). According to the descriptions of the pilgrims and travelers, the spring was called “John the Baptist spring” and was located east of the Jordan River, less than 2 km (1.2 mi) from the river.
It is clear that John the Baptist came to this place (Wadi el-Kharrar) where Elijah had come before him and had been caught up to heaven. So John chose this place and began to act in the spirit and power of Elijah. Though it should be emphasized that John the Baptist was not Elijah (Jn 1:21), he was the voice of one “crying in the wilderness.” The Roman remains discovered during the excavations indicate a considerable settlement near Wadi el-Kharrar. The area was known to pilgrims and many people started visiting the area, reaching a high point during the Byzantine period.
The Ministry of Tourism and Department of Antiquities of Jordan through the Resources Management Project started field operations, including survey test trenches and excavations, along the eastern side of the Jordan River, especially in Wadi el-Kharrar. The purpose was to clarify several questions still awaiting answers, such as the role of the eastern side of Jordan River in the early history of Christianity.
From the Gospels it appears that the eastern side of the Jordan River corresponds to a location usually called the wilderness, the place where John the Baptist baptized.
The discovery of Christian remains at Wadi el-Kharrar confirms what the Gospels show, that this site was an integral part of events described in the New Testament. The buildings at Wadi el-Kharrar, and its related outposts down the northern coast of the Dead Sea, played a vital part in the events recorded in the Gospels.
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The northern part of Tell el-Kharrar where the remains of three churches, three caves and three baptism pools have been found.
Pilgrim Accounts
Several travelers visited Tell el-Kharrar during their trips to the Holy Land. They described the hill and the incidents that happened on and around it during several ancient periods. Among them, the Pilgrim of Bordeaux (AD 333) tells us that the place where Jesus was baptized by John was 8 km (5 mi) from the Dead Sea. He also described a place by the river where a little hill was located on the far bank, from which Elijah was caught up into heaven. The hillock recently called Tell el-Kharrar was formerly called Jebel Mar Elyas (Hill of the prophet Elijah; Wilkinson 1999:33).
In an Anonymous Life of Constantine, the same hill is mentioned as having been visited by St. Helena in AD 337. After she crossed to the east side of the Jordan she visited the “cave of the forerunner.” Opposite the cave was a raised place which was thought to be the place where Elijah was caught up to heaven. She decreed that there should be a very impressive sanctuary built there in the name of the prophet Elijah (Wilkinson 1977:203). The “raised place” is a clear pointer to Tell el-Kharrar.
The protection wall and the western side of Tell el-Kharrar.
On the way to Mt. Nebo Egeria, in AD 384, tells of visiting a tiny church where there were many monks. “Between the church and the [monks’] cells was a plentiful spring which flowed from the rock” (Wilkinson 1999:120).
St. Mary the Egyptian mentions that she visited the temple of John the Baptist, which was close to the Jordan River. According to the Patriarch of Jerusalem Sofronius, she crossed the river and lived for 47 years on the eastern side of the Jordan River. The excavations revealed the presence of Roman occupation on Tell el-Kharrar. Whether or not these remains, which were later damaged, represent part of the above mentioned temple is still to be determined.
The pilgrim Theodosius visited the area in AD 530 and described the church of St. John the Baptist on the eastern side of the Jordan River saying:
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The Prayer hall of the Rhotorios Monastery on Tell el-Kharrar.
The small chapel at the southwestern corner of Tell el-Kharrar.
Where my Lord was baptized there is on the far side of the Jordan the “little hill” called Hermon…where Saint Elijah was taken up (Wilkinson 1977:69).
The text directly refers to Tell el-Kharrar, which was called Hermon during the sixth century AD.
Antoninus visited the eastern side of the Jordan River in AD 570. He said,
…we arrived at the place where the Lord was baptized. This is the place…where Elijah was taken up. In that place is the “little hill of Hermon” mentioned in the psalm (Wilkinson 1977:81).
He continues,
By the Jordan, not far from where the Lord was baptized is the very large Monastery of Saint John, which has two guest-houses (Wilkinson 1977:82).
Arculf in AD 670 described the church:
But in the upper part there is a great monastery for monks, which has been built on the brow of a small hill nearby, overlooking the church. There is also a church built there in honour of Saint John the Baptist which, together with the monastery, is enclosed in a single masonry wall (Wilkinson 1977:107).
John Moschos. writing in the seventh century, mentions Sapsaphas near Wadi el-Kharrar. He also states that he built a church and monastery there (Wortley 1992:5; Hirschfeld 1992:17). The hill was mentioned also by the pilgrim Saewulf during AD 1102–1103 after he described the Arabian side of the Jordan River.
It is there that the mountain is from which Elias went up to heaven in a chariot of fire (PPTS 4b: 23).
The Russian pilgrim gave some details about the hill when he said,
Mount Hermon is about 20 sagenes [140 ft] from the monastery, and is to the left near the road. It is a sandy hill, small rather than large. … Not far from the river, a couple of bow-shots to the east, is the place where the prophet Elias was carried to heaven in a chariot of fire (PPTS 4a: 27, 29).
Channels, settling basin and pool of the water system.
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Pilgrim Joannes Phocas in AD 1185 said.
Between the monastery of the Forerunner and the Jordan is the little hill of Hermonim, whereon the Saviour stood and was pointed out to the crowd by the finger of John the Baptist (PPTS 5:27).
An anonymous pilgrim mentions,
Five miles from thence (Jericho) is the river Jordan, wherein the Lord was baptized, being eight leagues [24 mi] distant from Jerusalem. Not far from thence is the mount from which Elijah was caught up into heaven (PPTS 6:3).
Archaeological sites in the Wadi el-Kharrar. 1. Laura of St. Mary the Egyptian, 2. John the Baptist Church, 3. caves of the monks, 4. pilgrims’ station, 5. laura, 6. Roman camp site, 7. Elijah’s Hill.
Wadi el-Kharrar (Elijah’s Valley)
Wadi el-Kharrar is the modern name for Sapsaphas which is depicted on the Madaba mosaic map. This is a dramatic site in the wilderness east of the Jordan River, just to the west of the village of Al-Kafrein and not far from the famous site of Jericho. The archaeological remains are located along the southern edge of the Wadi el-Kharrar, scattered over small hills and barren terraces of marl and limestone approximately 335 m (1100 ft) below sea level.
The valley is located in an area called Ghor al-Kafrein. It is bordered on the north by Wadi Nimrin, on the south by Wadi Gharaba, on the east by the modem village al-Kafrein, and on the west by the Jordan River. Wadi el-Kharrar is a natural depression which extends east-west for 1.8 km (1.1 mi) before emptying into the Jordan River. At the beginning of the wadi is a small hill called Elijah’s hill, or Hermon Hill. Next to the hill is a spring described by the pilgrims as “John the Baptist spring.” Numerous springs join together there and empty into the Jordan River.
Several kinds of trees and plants still grow in the wadi and reflect the beautiful nature of the area. Caves (monk cells) are still visible on both sides of the valley indicating the importance of the site and recalling the memory of John the Baptist. According to tradition, he started his mission and preaching in and around this valley. Near the end of the wadi, before the spring empties in the river, archaeological excavations have revealed three churches. The sound of the running water reminds us of John’s baptism of Christ in this vicinity.
General view of Wadi el-Kharrar.
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Cistern of the Greek monastery on Tell el-Kharrar.
Tell el-Kharrar: Elijah’s Hill
Tell el-Kharrar is a small low hill located at the southeastern end of the Wadi el-Kharrar. The site is surrounded by trees, grass and active springs on the north, east and west sides. The southern parts of the tell are linked with the flat plains, which extend to Wadi Gharaba. The site commands excellent views, especially to the west.
The tell consists of white lisan marl mixed with brown-red soil on the top. The eastern, western and northern slopes of the tell fall steeply down into the bed of the wadi that runs west to join the Jordan River, approximately 2 km (1.2 mi) away. Thus the banks of Wadi el-Kharrar, especially the southern bank, represents a natural route from Tell el-Kharrar to the Jordan River.
The hill was occupied during the Roman and Byzantine periods. Systematic excavations on the site revealed the presence of three churches, three caves and three baptism pools, with a protection wall around the hill. Two entrances were used to access the site from the south and from the west. The top of the hill was later occupied by Greek orthodox monks between the 12th and 18th centuries.
Southern pool on Tell el-Kharrar, from the Roman period.
Rhotorios Monastery
The Greek Orthodox Rhotorios Monastery had a prayer hall, church and water system.
Prayer Hall
The prayer hall is a rectangular building built of undressed field stones, located near the southeastern corner of Tell el-Kharrar. A plain white mosaic pavement made up the floor. The manner of construction and location support my suggestion that the structure functioned as a prayer hall or chapel for Christians. Material recovered through the excavations date the structure to the late Roman-early Byzantine periods. Modern agricultural activity in the area caused considerable damage to the building.
Church
Systematic excavations to the south of Tell el-Kharrar uncovered a structure built of well-dressed sandstone blocks. The general shape of the structure is rectangular. It is clear that the structure represents a small chapel located near the southwestern comer of Tell el-Kharrar. The chapel consisted of two parts, with three arches to support the roof. Courtyard remains were recovered near the northwestern corner of the structure. It is difficult now to locate the doorway of the chapel, but the location of the courtyard suggests that the door possibly was located in the northern wall, especially the northwestern corner just opposite Tell el-Kharrar. The material recovered through the excavations dated the structure from the fifth to sixth centuries AD.
Water System
A pool, cistern and settling basins were located between the prayer hall and the small chapel.
The recovered pool was dug in the natural lisan marl rock. Well-cut sandstone ashlars were used to build the inner sides of the pool. A thick layer of lime was added and covered by a smooth layer of plaster to prevent any seepage. Apparently the pool was roofed by using a vault system, since remains of arches are still visible on the upper parts of the pool. It is reasonable to assume that the purpose of the roof was to reduce evaporation during summer and to keep the water inside the pool clean. Remains of a mosaic floor were located at the bottom of the pool.
A cistern, located near the northwestern corner of the pool, is fed by an aqueduct. It is pear shaped with a circular cross section. Excavations in the cistern revealed the presence of fallen ashlars mixed with smooth sand and pottery sherds which dated to the Byzantine period. The inner sides of the cistern were coated with a plaster layer to prevent seepage.
Tell el-Kharrar in the Roman and Byzantine Periods
Several structures and buildings were constructed on the hill during the Roman and Byzantine periods. Among these structures were three pools and three churches.
Pear-shaped pool of the Byzantine period in the lower area of Bethany Beyond Jordan.
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The Pools
Three pools are attested on the tell, the first one located on the lower southern slope and dated to the Roman period. The other two pools are situated on the top of the northern edge of Tell el-Kharrar. Rectangular in shape, the southern pool had an inner staircase on the eastern side. Four steps extending the full width of the pool remained in situ. They enabled pilgrims to go down into the pool and either be baptized or have a refreshing wash. The inner sides of the pool were coated with three layers of lime and plaster to prevent seepage. Field stones covered by a lime layer formed the floor. The pool was filled from a channel supported by stone pillars that was fed by an aqueduct located to the south.
Two pools, also dated to the Roman period, are of square shape. The northwestern pool measures 3.4 m (11 ft) east-west x 4.3 m (14 ft) north-south. Ashlars were added near the southwestern corner of the pool during later periods, possibly as a staircase to go down into the pool.
Apse of the Western Church.
The western wall of the northeastern pool was partly damaged. More digging under the damaged floor of the pool revealed a cistern. It is circular in shape on top and built of well-cut sandstone ashlars. There are no remains of lime or plaster covering the inner sides, which leads me to think that the cistern was built at the level of the water table of the nearby spring. The recovered material dates from the Early Roman to Late Byzantine periods.
Northern Church
The northern church consists of two sections—a chancel screen and a nave. It has two entrances, one in the northern wall 70 cm (28 in) wide and the other on the western side. The distinguishing feature of the church is a complete Greek inscription set in a mosaic floor. It reads,
By the help of the grace of Christ our God the whole monastery was constructed in the time of Rhotorios, the most God-beloved Presbyter and Abbot. May God the Savior give him mercy.
The floor was covered by a colored mosaic with a frame and cross marks depicted with geometrical designs. Pillars along the northern wall of the church were designed to support the roof. No roof tiles were recovered from the excavations. Possibly the roof was comprised of wooden beams which have decomposed. The internal walls of the church were covered with a layer of smooth while plaster. A Byzantine date is suggested by the recovered material.
Northern wall of the Byzantine pear-shaped pool.
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Western Church
The western church consisted of two parts. First, an apse (cave) cut in the natural rock and located under the northwestern pool. The apse was well prepared—lamp niches were dug in its southern and western sides. Remains of the door of the chancel screen in front of the apse are still visible. The other part of the church consisted of four bases built of well-dressed sandstone ashlars creating a nave and two aisles. Nothing remained of the roof and the arch system save remains of arch springs. Originally the floor was covered with colored mosaics. Unfortunately all that was left were fragments of mosaic with gray lime still adhering to them. Pottery sherds indicated a Byzantine date.
It is reasonable to assume that the apse represents the reuse of a cave which had been dug into the natural rock in an earlier period.
Laura (Hermit Cells)
Not far from Tell el-Kharrar, at a distance of 300 m (330 yd) to the west on the southern edge of Wadi el-Kharrar. some architectural remains were discovered. They consist of a small structure with foundations built of local field stones and upper courses built of mudbricks. Wooden beams were used to roof the structure that evidently was used by a monk or monks.
Pool
A large pool was recovered during the excavation in the lower area of Bethany Beyond the Jordan called the Zor area. It is built in a pear shape and measures 15–12 m (49-39 ft) north-south and 21–24 m (69-78 ft) east-west. The lower courses and the foundations were built of local field stones, while the upper courses were built of well-cut sandstone ashlars. Three courses of the well-cut ashlars remain in situ. The inner sides of the pool were coated with three layers of plaster to prevent seepage.
A well-made channel directed water from a nearby spring on the north into the pool. An outlet was provided in the southern wall. A staircase was located near the southern wall. Material recovered from the pool dates the structure to the Byzantine period. Other structures, possibly connected with the pool, were discovered nearby on high ground to the east.
Greek inscription in the northern church. It states that the monastery was built in the time of a church official named Rhotorios.
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Two caves in Bethany beyond the Jordan used as dwellings by anchorites (hermits).
Cave Cells
Two caves were discovered during the field survey of the area of Wadi el-Kharrar. Caves found on the eastern side of the Jordan River were utilized by monks for various purposes. Caves used as churches are generally found in the center of monasteries in the wilderness near the banks of the Jordan River. The two caves (cells) that we found were dug into the upper layers of the lisan marl cliffs and were used as dwellings. Prayer niches were located in the eastern walls of the two caves. Their location was such that the monies had to gain access using ropes or ladders.
John Moschos. a monk from the monastery of Eustorgios in Jerusalem, tells of a personal experience in the monastic caves of the area in the seventh century. He was on a pilgrimage to the Sinai by way of Aila and the road to Arabia. When he crossed the Jordan he was stricken by a violent fever and forced to take refuge in a cave. Three days later John the Baptist appeared to him in a dream and tried to dissuade him from continuing his pilgrimage. John told the monk, “For this little cave is greater than Mount Sinai. Many times did our Lord Jesus Christ come in here to visit me” (Wortley 1992:4). When he recovered from his illness the monk transformed the cave into a church for hermits living in the area. John Moschus concludes, “the place is called Sapsas. …it faces the Jordan” (Wortley 1992:5).
Remains of John the Baptist Church, located a few hundred yards east of the Jordan River at the traditional site where John baptized Jesus.
John the Baptist Church
A church thought to be dedicated to John the Baptist was discovered 300 m (330 yd) east of the Jordan River in the Zor area bordered by lisan marl cliffs on the east. This church was considered the most notable memorial church of St. John the Baptist on the eastern bank of the Jordan River. It is located at the traditional site where the baptism of Jesus is said to have taken place. The emperor Anastasius built the church here and endowed a monastic community attached to it.
Tamarisk trees cover the site. The church is connected to the other sites on the high mounds to the east (the Ghor) by the Wadi el-Kharrar. Water from the Wadi el-Kharrar flows past the site of the church yet today. A number of pilgrims and travelers have referred to the church. Among them are the Pilgrim of Bordeaux (AD 333), Theodosius (AD 530), Arculf (AD 670), Willblad (AD 721–727), Theoderich (AD 1172), and Joannes Phocas (AD 1185).
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Marble floor of the Church of John the Baptist at Bethany Beyond Jordan.
Excavations have revealed the foundations of arches, walls and partly preserved mosaic and marble floors in situ. Materials such as pottery, coins, and marble roof tiles date the site to the late Byzantine period, between the fifth and sixth centuries.
The discovered church represents and fits the descriptions of the ancient pilgrims who passed through this area on their way from Jerusalem to Mount Nebo. This discovery clarifies all doubts as to the exact location of the church that was built on the eastern side of the Jordan River to commemorate the sacred event of the baptism of Christ.
Tell el-Kharrar (center) and nearby Wadi el-Kharrar.
The Pilgrims Road
Two Roman roads were built during the period of Hadrian. Around AD 129 aroad was built to connect Hesban with Livias (al-Rameh), Jericho and Jerusalem. This road was possibly used by Hadrian when he returned from Petra (Avi-Yonah 1954:569; Isaac 1978:49). From the fourth century onward the Christian pilgrims visited the region east of the Jordan river which includes Sapsaphas (el-Kharrar), Gharaba and Livias (al-Rameh) up to Mt. Nebo. Most of the pilgrims visited the Jordan River on their way from Jerusalem to Jericho. Others crossed to the east side and visited and described the remains along Wadi el-Kharrar. It was in this area that the memory of the baptism of Jesus and the preaching of John the Baptist had been preserved.
The recent discoveries revealed the presence of Roman and Byzantine sites on the eastern bank of the Jordan River and along the southern banks of Wadi el-Kharrar and Wadi Gharaba. These sites constitute stations along the pilgrims’ road.
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Fallen milestone along the pilgrim route through Wadi el-Kharrar.
Two large water pools of Byzantine date were uncovered near the southern bank of Wadi Gharaba and remains of mosaic floors were noticed near Tell al-Rameh (Livias). In addition, excavations in progress along the southern bank of Wadi Hesban have revealed remains of Roman and Byzantine sites such as watchtowers and milestones, clear evidence of the pilgrims’ road.
Conclusion
Since the beginning of the fourth century pilgrims have visited Tell el-Kharrar. The descriptions point out the place of Elijah’s ascension from a small hill at the entrance of Wadi el-Kharrar, around 1800m(1.1 mi) east of the Jordan River in the el-Kafrein plain, and not far away from the traditional place of baptism in the Jordan River.
Several sweet and saline springs are still active in Wadi el-Kharrar, and come together to form a stream that empties into the Jordan. Ongoing excavations on the southern edge of Wadi el-Kharrar have revealed a number of archaeological sites, including small structures, pools, aqueducts, and monks’ caves, located beside the springs. In addition, a Roman road (Esbus-to-Jericho) passed through this area (Waterhouse and Ibach 1975:217–33; Piccirillo 1996:285–300).
Excavated watchtower near the pilgrims’ road.
Archaeological evidence uncovered at Tell el-Kharrar is sufficient to allow a reconstruction of the complex that was once there. The reconstruction emphasizes the character of the complex as a monastery. Churches, water systems, and pools attest to its uniqueness as a monastery situated in the wilderness.
The monastery was built on three separate levels:
• The lowest level, occupied by the churches on the northern and western sides of Wadi el-Kharrar, surrounded by a wall.
• The middle level, the area of pools, two of which were located on the northern side of the tell.
• The upper level, on top of the hill, which possibly comprised the monks’ living quarters during the period of the monastery.
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A staircase that began at the main entrance to the monastery connected the three levels. Small finds suggest the monastery was founded during the Byzantine period and remained in use until the Muslim conquest of Jordan in the middle of the seventh century.
The antiquities Department of Jordan team has also conducted test trenches and limited excavations along the nearby Wadies, such as Wadi Nimrin and Wadi Gharaba, to check their importance and relation to Wadi al-Kharrar. The ongoing systematic excavations have discovered the place of Bethany beyond the Jordan, the place of John’s baptism beyond the Jordan.
Acknowledgement
I wish to express my gratitude and appreciation to H.E. Akel Biltagi of the Ministry of Tourism and Department of Antiquities for his continued guidance and support to the project. In addition, I wish to thank the entire team of workers who helped me much in the field.
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